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Fixed Oils:
Information for Soap Makers
What
to write about Fixed Oils, Vegetable and Nut Butters, Fats and other
ingredients was difficult as there is SO MUCH information available.
I decided to keep this down to information soap makers could
use,
and report on the most commonly used items. This is by no
means,
a complete list of all oils
available.
By useful I simply mean I'll tell you what it's reported to do for the
skin and I'll keep it in
layman's terms as much as possible. Yes, I could go into
describing Fixed Oils as complex compounds called triglycerides and
continue into their molecular structure. However, that isn't
going to help you pick what you want for your soap (unless you work in
a lab). What I wanted to try and do is tell you how the oils
could affect the skin. By doing this you could pick and
choose depending on what you wanted your end bar of soap to
do. So, grab your favorite beverage, get comfortable, and
let's have a look at some of the ingredients you can use.
Vegetable
and
Nut Fixed Oils & Butters
Almond,
Sweet
(Prunus amygdalus):
One of the most used, of the Fixed Oils family, Sweet Almond oil is
preferred for massage and widely used in lotions, creams, ointments and
soap. It is said to have great nutritional value, for all
skin types, and has a similar make up to baby's sebum (the natural oil
produced by the skin). It contains glycosides, minerals,
vitamins and is rich in protein. It has little to no natural
scent. It saponifies easily and produces a mild soap with
very good lather. This oil should be stored cool or
refrigerated as it does go rancid quickly.
Apricot
Kernel
(Prunus armeniaca):
This fixed oil is said to reduce roughness, cracking and irritated
skin, and
could possibly help the fine wrinkles of age. Its main use
should be for dehydrated, delicate, mature or sensitive skin.
It has high vitamin A content. Many places recommend that
only one or two ounces, per pound of other oils, be used in soap
making. This oil should be stored in a dark container, cool
or refrigerated.
Castor
USP
and Castor, Sulfated (Ricinus
communis):
Castor oil (also know as Palm Christi) is made from the seeds of the
Castor plant. Sulfated Castor (also know as Turkey Red) has
sulfuric acid added to it, resulting in a water soluble fixed
oil.
I find Castor Oil a very strange oil as it is naturally part alcohol /
part oil. When used alone it makes a very soft soap, kind of
transparent. When used with other fixed oils it makes a very
hard
bar. It produces a nice barrier on the skin that is soothing
and humectant (attracting moisture). It's wonderful to use
Castor Oil as a super fatting agent and great for mild soaps and
shampoo bars. This oil should also be stored cool but has a
longer shelf life then many other fixed oils.
Cocoa
Butter
(Theobroma cacao):
Did you know that Mr. Hershey also made a pure Cocoa Butter
soap? It didn't do nearly as well as his chocolate.
Cocoa Butter is very protective to the skin and actually works as a
slight water repellent. It contains 5 IU of vitamin E per
ounce and softens and lubricates the skin. I personally love
the chocolate scent but it can also be purchased in deodorized
form. It is suggested that, if using Cocoa Butter, you should
stick to 3 - 15% of the total recipe. It does produce a very
hard bar of soap with more of a foam then bubbles. It's great
to counter balance the softer, stickier oils and butters like Olive and
Mango. It is pretty stable so long as it doesn't
melt.
A cool place is best, but doesn't 'have' to be refrigerated unless it's
going to sit for more then a month. If you are also going to
use it for cooking then refrigerate it from the start.
Coconut
(Cocos nucifera):
Coconut Oil is one of the big bubble makers when it comes to
soap. It's expressed from coconut kernels and the most used
is 76 degree (solid at temperatures below 76 degrees). It can
also be purchased as 96 degree (a more firm original fixed oil, but
does not
change the outcome of your soap). This highly saturated fixed
oil
contains twice the heavy fats as lard. It is wonderfully emollient and
has cooling properties. But do be careful as too much can
cause skin to dry. Also note that many people have allergic
reactions to coconut so if making soap to sell, make some without the
coconut oil in it. Its saturated nature resists rancidity but
should still be stored in a cool place. By the way, this was
once the most popular fixed oil used for popping popcorn.
Grapeseed
(Vitis vinifera):
Grapeseed is one of the lightest fixed oils you can use and is said to
have little
to no
odor of its own. I personally can smell it and think it has a
very distinctive taste. It's widely used in hypoallergenic
products
because it does not often cause allergic reactions in the highly
allergic. It produces a good soap with average bubbles and
contains vitamins, minerals, high in polyunsaturates and protein.
Hazelnut
(Corylus avellana):
Cold pressed hazelnut oil is a wonderful light, pale yellow / amber,
penetrating fixed oil that is slightly astringent and makes a good soap
for
acne prone and oily skin. It penetrates the skin easily and
has some vitamin E. It is high in the essential fatty acids
and is soothing and healing to dry irritated skin. Studies have shown
that it can filter sun rays and therefore is commonly used in sun care
products. When using hazelnut oil, in your soap making, be
sure to include more saturated fats and oils in the formula for more
normal tracing times. Hazelnut oil only has 7% saturated fatty acids
and is therefore slow to saponify. Should be stored cool.
Hemp
Seed
(Cannabis sativa):
There has been some controversy on Hemp Seed oil. Check your
local government to find its legal status as some States have
banned its use. Hemp seed oil is extracted from the seeds of
the Cannabis sativa plant. To most people Cannabis sativa is synonymous
with marijuana. However, the fixed oil does not contain any
of the
harmful or drug like properties. Hemp contains proteins and
high quality fat. Hemp has a remarkable fatty acid profile.
It is high in omega-3 and a 1.7% gamma-linolenic acid. It is 57%
linoleic and 19% linoleic acids. Hemp is a wonderful fixed
oil for
dry or mature skin since it is said to help stimulate cell
growth. Natural hemp seed oil is dark green and has a nutty
rich scent. Hemp seed oil is an emollient. It does
not produce a lot of bubbles, but does produce a nice rich
foam. Should be stored cool.
Jojoba
(Simmondsia chinensis):
Not really in the fixed oils family, Jojoba is actually a liquid
wax. It is not
eatable.
It resembles human sebum; the natural coating our
body produces to protect the skin and keep it supple. Many
have called Jojoba, 'Skin Therapy'. Jojoba contains protein,
minerals and a waxy substance that mimics collagen. Although
Jojoba is perfect for any skin type it is traditionally used to help
dry or oily skin. If your skin has an over production of
sebum, jojoba oil will dissolve clogged pores and restore the skin to
its natural pH balance. The reason Jojoba works so well is it
actually penetrates the skin because it is accepted as sebum.
Jojoba has an extensively long shelf life; it will almost
never
break down or
go rancid. When pricing Jojoba, remember that as you look at
some of the rather high prices. Because jojoba has very
little scent it works as a wonderful natural perfume base and massage
oil. Jojoba is
not greasy and absorbs right into the skin. Jojoba oil is
hypoallergenic. People have used as much as 50% in soap
making. And, I think it makes a wonderful, skin loving, bar
of soap.
Mango
Butter
(Mangifera Indica):
Mango butter has gotten a bad reputation as being 'lumpy' or
'grainy'. This is caused by improper storage. With
improper storage little fat granules appear and this is what causes the
lumpy feeling. This is, however, easily corrected.
Simply heat the Mango butter in a double boiler till melted, DO NOT
cook it. Pour it back into a container
and let it solidify at room temperature. Then store it in a
cool place. Mango butter is an excellent moisturizer in soaps
and counters the drying effects that some fixed oils have.
It's
very high in unsaponifiables and should only be used at a rate of 2 -
10% total weight per recipe. It will cut some of the bubbles
you get from your soap, so a little dab will do you.
Olive
(Olea europaea):
The favorite fixed oil of soap makers, Olive oil is high in protein,
minerals
and vitamins. It comes in three forms; Virgin (the first
pressed and very green with chlorophyll), Grade A (the end of the first
press, not quite as green but just as good for soap making), and Pomace
(the remaining fixed oil extracted by steam or solvents, hardly green
at all
and preferred by soap makers). Even though it's high in
unsaponifiables it still produces good bubbles. It is said to
soften skin and have a superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer
of the skin. All Olives will tend to pull other fixed oils
into
quicker saponification. All the Olives are very stable but
should still be stored in a cool place. The grade of Olive
you use will become a personal preference. I suggest you try
them all. Note: Olive oil alone will remain very soft -
almost never hardens. However, when used with other fixed
oils it
actually helps the hardening process.
The
Palms
- Don't get Palm Oil and Palm Kernel Oil mixed up.
Palm Oil
(Elaeis guinnesis):
Comes from the fruit or seed of
the Palm Tree. Palm Oil is high in vitamin A, is a food grade oil, but
DOES NOT make a nice bar of soap by itself. The soap will be
too soft to actually use. It will help pull other fixed oils
into a
quicker saponification.
Palm
Kernel
Oil (Elaeis guineensis): Comes from the 'palms'
of the African Palm Oil Tree. Palm Kernel Oil is another of
the bubblers (like Coconut) and produces a nice, hard, very smooth
textured bar of soap. Palm Kernel Oil can easily be the
substitute for Coconut Oil.
Both of these fixed oils should be stored very cool and preferably in a
dark
container.
Rose
Hip Seed
(Rosa mosqueta):
This is one of my personal favorites. It's said to be a
healing fixed oil that could regenerate skin and counteract the effects
of
aging. It's a rich source of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids,
very high (between 30% and 40%) in gamma Linoleic acid (GLA) and good
old vitamin C. It's said to help stretch marks, eczema,
psoriasis, and burns, and strengthen the hair. However, use
this fixed oil
sparingly if you have acne. It does go rancid quickly and
should be stored in the refrigerator or freezer.
Sesame
Seed
Oil (Sesamum
inducum):
This is another jam packed fixed oil, full of great stuff;
antioxidants,
vitamins (including E), minerals, proteins, lecithin, amino acids plant
steroids or sterolins (they moisturize skin) and oleic and Linoleic
fatty acids. It's a very stable oil and resists rancidity
very well, however, still store it cool. In the past few
years it's really gained popularity as a tanning oil and you'll see it
popping up in all kinds of tanning products. It's been called
the super moisturizer. For soap making it's not so good by
itself, it makes a soft bar and takes a long time to
saponify. I would suggest using either Coconut or Palm Kernel
for the bubbles, a harder bar and quicker trace.
Shea
Butter
(Butyrospermum parkii):
Wondrous Shea Butter! Another one of the super packed fixed
oils, with
Vitamins A & E, cinnamic esters (antimicrobial &
moisturizing), plant steroids or sterolins (they moisturize skin), and
helps protect from UV rays. It's said to help all manner of
skin problems, bruising, and has a superior moisturizing effect on the
upper layer of the skin, reduces the effects of aging skin and helps
scar tissue. I personally have seen Shea Butter do some
pretty wonderful stuff and I love it for my hair as a
conditioner. Shea butter has gotten a bad reputation as being
'lumpy' or 'grainy'. This is caused by improper
storage. With improper storage little fat granules appear and
this is what causes the lumpy feeling. This is, however,
easily corrected. Simply heat the Shea butter in a double
boiler till melted, DO NOT let it cook.
Pour it back into a container and let it solidify at a warm room
temperature. Then store it in a cool place. I would
suggest, for soap making, that you use the ultra refined as this has no
scent of its own and is very smooth and creamy white. It has
been suggested that only a few tablespoons should be used per pound of
soap. However, I've used it to make soap with nothing
else. It does not bubble a lot but rather produces a soft
foam and I love it.
Soybean
Oil /
Shortening (Soya
max):
Using a pure Soybean Shortening (to replace Tallow or Lard) makes a
wonderful bar of soap. Coconut or Palm Kernel should be
added,
as Soy does not produce a lot of bubbles. Currently soybean
oil is one of the most important fixed oils produced in
America.
Most of the lecithin (phospholipids) used in cosmetics are derived from
soybeans. Soybean oil has a very high unsaturated fatty acid
compound, 2% sterolins and 30 IU per ounce of vitamin E.
Fixed oils
with the highest unsaponifiables are Avocado Oil, Olive Oil, Sesame
Oil, Shea Butter, and Soybean Oil. Although it does not go
rancid quickly, it should still be stored cool.
Sunflower
(Helianthus annuus):
Sunflower oil is another of the vitamin rich fixed oils with A, C, D
and
E. It's
high in linoleic acid and has a few saturated fatty acids. On
its own it takes a long time to reach trace but combined with other
fixed
oils is a wonderful, inexpensive addition. The main problem
with Sunflower oil is that it goes rancid rather quickly and needs to
be refrigerated or frozen. When the content of your soap has
too much Sunflower oil, your soap can also go rancid. I would
keep the amount of Sunflower Oil down to about 10 - 15%.
Wheat
Germ
(Triticum vulgare):
Wheat Germ oil is thick and sticky, has a golden color and has a heavy
wheat / nut kind of smell. It is extremely high in vitamin A,
B1, D, lecithin, protein, a high content of unsaturated fatty acid
compounds and a very high vitamin E content at 250 IU per
ounce. Some people swear by it as a preservative for soaps
and toiletries, and others totally disagree as to its preservative
effects. I must admit to not testing it and not
knowing. People allergic to wheat flour may have reactions to
wheat germ oil. Refrigeration is recommended.
Animal
& Insect Ingredients
Beeswax
(Apis mellifera):
For soap making, Beeswax is used to harden the bar and can help the
emulsification of water and oil. Pure Beeswax has a sweet
nutty smell of honey. It contains a high percentage of
unsaponifiables but still has a soap making reaction. If
adding Beeswax don't forget to calculate the lye needed. It's
best to stay at about 10% of the total recipe.
Honey:
Honey can be added as you would add herb, essential oils or
fragrance. It does not have its own SAP Value. The
trick is getting the right amount added as too much will keep your bar
from hardening. Stick to about 1 or 2 tablespoons and judge
more or less depending on how hard the bar will be (from the fixed oils
alone). Honey is full of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and
enzymes. Strangely enough Honey is cleansing and
antibacterial. Bacteria cannot live in honey, which
demonstrates its natural preservative properties. It leaves a
micro thin protective film on the skin.
Lanolin,
Anhydrous (Ovis
aries):
Lanolin comes from the sebaceous glands of sheep. It is
supposedly emollient, soothing, softening and absorbs and holds water
to the skin. Chemically it is considered a wax rather then a
fat or oil. You will find those who swear by its use and
others who do not like it at all. I personally am allergic to
wool, and therefore to Lanolin. So I cannot guide you here at
all. However, I will say that it should be added as a super
fatting agent after trace.
Lard:
This is pig fat and one of the two main animal fats used in traditional
soap making. It produces a wonderful bar of soap with good
sudsing action and is an excellent cleanser. There are two
things that people find strange about Lard. One is that it
sometimes produces a pink bar of soap and the other is the
smell. Lard needs some kind of fragrance or essential oil
added. It must be kept refrigerated before use.
Lard is a Tallow.
Milk,
Powdered
(Lactose):
You can achieve the wonderful 'milk bath' feeling by adding milk
powders to your soap. Milk leaves the skin feeling silky
smooth with a hydrated appearance. Many historically famous
women used the properties of milk to prevent wrinkles and promote
smooth, firm and soft skin. Among them are Poppea (Emperor
Nero's wife), Marie Antoinette and most famous for this use,
Cleopatra. Basically lactic acid (milk) removes the upper
layer of skin to revel smooth, new skin. You will find the
same properties with Goat's milk. If you do intend on using
milk in your soap recipes, make sure you also include something as a
preservative (see below). Using milks will give you the risk
of a spoiled, or soured, bar of soap.
Tallows:
Tallow is the melting down and straining of animal fat. Lard
could be considered a tallow. The most widely recognized
tallow is made from Beef fat. Like Lard this is the other
traditional soap making ingredient. It also produces a
wonderful, good sudsing, cleansing bar of soap. It can also
turn pink (like Lard). Although a good tallow does not have
the stronger odor like Lard does, it still carries the faint smell of
beef and therefore needs scenting with fragrance or essential
oils. This too must be kept refrigerated prior to use.
A Few
Last
Things
You will begin to play with many herbs and ingredients as you venture
forth in your soap making. Make sure you understand the
properties of ANYTHING you put in your soap. Especially when
using herbs and essential oils. However, there are a few last
things I wish to share with you.
Baking
Soda
(Sodium Bicarbonate):
One teaspoon of baking soda, per batch of soap, can make a huge
difference in your soap. Baking Soda leaves skin feeling
silky smooth. It cleans, deodorizes, softens and absorbs
moisture. It can also relieve the itching from
rashes. Most importantly it can help balance the pH level in
your soap - making a perfect bar / OR
adding too much will cause your
soap to NOT saponify. On top of that it reacts a
little
different with every oil you may use. Play with this one.
Borax
(Boric Acid or Sodium
Borate):
This is a mild alkali that forms naturally in arid regions. It is used
as a natural preservative, buffering agent and emulsifier (when used in
combination with beeswax). It is typically used in an 18:1 ration of
beeswax to borax to create a stable without emulsion. It is
used as a water softener, a preservative, and as a texturizer in cream
products, such as cold creams, foundation creams, hair color rinses,
permanent waves, and shaving creams. When combined with guar gum and
water borax forms a gel. Like Baking Soda it can help balance
the pH level in your soap - making a perfect bar / OR adding too much
will cause your soap to NOT saponify. On top of
that it
reacts a little different with every oil you may use. Play
with this one as well.
Glycerin,
Vegetable (Olea
europaea):
Vegetable Glycerin is an odorless, colorless, syrupy derivative of
olive oil. Glycerin has long been used as a benign solvent,
lubricant, and preservative. It is sweet tasting; some feel
it's warming to the skin, and edible. It's also a great
humectant (attracting moisture) and is a wonderful additive to
soap. It does not have a SAP value and does not make a
soap. However, as an extra ingredient it can greatly improve
your soap. Just a little bit though, about 2 teaspoons per
batch, as it will draw moisture out of the air causing your soap to
sweat. Any soap, that you add Glycerin to, will need to be
wrapped tight in plastic. Glycerin is also used to make
nonalcoholic tinctures and as an ingredient in edible love oils.
Preservatives
and Antioxidants:
There are two main reasons why you need to think about preservatives
and antioxidants. The preservation of your product and the
safety of your family (this goes beyond, if you plan to sell your
product). There's nothing more frustrating then making the
perfect soap and having it go rancid. But even more important
is protecting your family from passing germs that could make you
sick. A preservative kills harmful bacteria that can cause
mold, mildew, and the passing of germs from one person to the
next. An antioxidant prevents the oxidation of your product
(the funny foamy stuff not the bubbles) that can destroy the scent,
color and texture. It also prevents the product from going
rancid.
Vodka can be used as a minor preservative, is easy to get your
hands on, and works great for small batches that will be used by your
family only. My “personal” recipes use Vodka.
However, if you get into sharing with friends and extended family, or
sell on the open market, you will need more. But, if you're
like me, you also want to STAY NATURAL!
NOT all products are equal and you will NEED to be careful when buying
them. I have come to trust one supplier for all my fixed oils
and
other ingredients, and they are the ONLY supplier I use anymore.
When it comes to my family I use only the best. I
also LOVE
their Earth Friendly, totally organic ways of doing business.
Grapefruit
Seed Extract
This is a wonder product (in my humble opinion) as it GREATLY increases
the shelf life of your creation and protects your family from harmful
bacteria. A general note on use is; if you use an oil, use
Grapefruit Seed Extract (a.k.a. GSE). This is classified as a
preservative, however it helps things retain color, scent and
appearance (and doesn't really add a ‘scent’ of its own). The
rule of thumb in use is between 1 - 5% of your
total volume in oil. Multiply the total volume of oil (in
ounces) by .02 to get the ounces (or part ounces) of GSE to use.
Rosemary
Oil
Extract or Essential Oil
This is primarily an antioxidant that keeps your oil based products
from going rancid. It is not a preservative or
antibacterial. It is especially useful when using fresh
fruit, vegetables, or milk products. However, it does have
its own distinct odor. This odor is strong in the
concentrated form, but you use such a little amount that it doesn't
really carry over to your finished product. Rosemary Oil
Extract (a.k.a. ROE) is thick and gooey and can be hard to work with,
but well worth the effort. The essential oil is very easy to
work with. If you're going to use this in a
soap, add it to the oils before trace - not after. It is
resistant to lye. Some people find this to be rough on the
skin in its concentrated form. I suggest wearing protective
eye ware and gloves when using this. The rule of thumb in use
is between 1 - 5% of your total volume in oil. Multiply the
total volume of oil (in ounces) by .02 to get the ounces (or part
ounces) of ROE to use. I don't really use this Rosemary as I
prefer Natural Vitamin E.
Natural
Vitamin E
This is also an antioxidant that keeps your oil based products from
going rancid. It is not a preservative or
antibacterial. An additional benefit is that vitamin E is
good for the skin. Natural Vitamin E (a.k.a. Low d-alpha
mixed tocopherols or T-50) does not add a color or smell to the
finished product. Although you'll note, when you look at it,
it is a dark brownish sort of color. When I'm making an
‘unscented’ product I use T-50. With this one
the best volume of use is 4 - 6 drops per pound of oil. In
our blender soap recipes I add 2 - 4 drops, depending on the stability
of the oils I'm using. A general rule of thumb is 1 drop per
4 oz. of oil.
If you need to choose only 2 products go with the GSE and
T-50. Experiment with the ROE later on.
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All
information, shared on
this web site, is for enjoyment and study only and is NOT meant to
diagnose or treat any medical condition. Only your
health care professional is qualified to diagnose or treat medical
conditions. Do not risk your health! Just because
something is 'natural' does NOT make it safe. Do not, under
any
circumstance, ingest or use herbs in any form
without consulting your Doctor. If you do, you do so
at
your OWN RISK.
Web Site
Content (text, graphics, look and feel) are Copyright Protected © All
Rights Reserved 2009, Sandy Marie.
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